The Blog of Jon Leverrier

Back on GMT.

1 month ago

English Breakfast

Never before have I been so excited about eating processed food! One of the first meals I had when landing back in the UK was a hearty english breakfast.

At this moment in time everything seems so extreme. Down to the portions of food, alcohol and the prices they cost.

More post holiday thoughts to come.


Last stop Parvati.

2 months ago

Parvati

Yet another magical over night bus journey from Rishikesh took us up the mountain range, guided so it seemed by the gazing full moon, towards the valley of Parvati. No amount of tiredness could prevent me from staying up to watch the rapidly changing scenery as we creeped along the roads carved out of mountains.

Parvati Shrine

I knew instantly that my 12 month journey was going to end here. Tired of moving about and in desperate need on some ‘reflection’ time, I found a cosy homestay and unpacked my bag for the final time.

The Parvati Valley does have a slightly more sinister side, with tourists “vanishing” whilst trekking due to the charas production in the area. Putting that aside, the valley is a perfect place to trekk around the surrounding villages and of course wondering about the lush forests, sweeping valley meadows and hot springs, whilst taking in that lovely mountain view.


Rob Clarke’s Air Asia logo.

3 months ago

I’ve been using Air Asia (AA) to fly to destinations around South East Asia on the cheap. They are a Malaysian based low cost carrier, very similar to UK brand easyJet.

In terms of brand consistency, AA really have a different visual presence when comparing them to other South East Asian airlines.

I was pleasantly surprised to stumble across British type designer Rob Clarke’s portfolio a couple of months back, who helped develop the logo and typeface in partnership with Start Creative.

Top job chaps.

Take a moment to look over Rob’s portfolio if you haven’t seen it already. Solid work.


Visiting the Taj Mahal, Agra.

3 months ago

The Taj certainly lived up to my expectation.

We were first inline when we arrived at the west gate ticket office at 5.40am. After another “Sir - I have no change” conversation at the ticket desk, we moved to another que closer to the west gate. Just after 6am the gates opened, and we rushed to find the Taj before the sun came up.

I appreciated the un-spoilt view of the Taj, taking lots of pictures before the wave of packaged tourists turned up to pollute the tranquil landscape.

Onwards to Delhi!


Varanasi - The beating heart of the Hindu universe.

3 months ago

A holly man gazes across the Ganges River.

When I crossed the bridge that spans across the Ganges River, the old city looked rather tranquil and sleepy. That moment quickly evaporated when we started to navigate through the vast labyrinth of narrow lanes towards the river and our guesthouse.

If anything, the network of small narrow lanes added some light relief from the sun during the day leaving the mornings and early evenings to stroll along the Ganges.

The Manikarnika Ghat was fascinating. Being meters away from families burning their beloved ones in a process of liberation from the cycle of birth and death will stay with me for a long time. 

Equally, I certainly wont forget having to move out the way for busy ‘outcasts’ carrying dead bodies through the small alleyways towards the Ganges River.

Being in Varanasi was a perfect time to re-watch Ron Fricke’s amazing “Baraka” film, which features shots of the Manikarnika Ghat and burning ceremony in high definition glory.

Onwards to Agra!


The quest for the perfect roti and dal continues…

3 months ago

I’m hooked on this roti/dal combination that seems popular in Bodgaya. A small wholemeal roll stuffed with herbs and spices served with dal. Very delicious and good value for 15 Rp.


Searching for enlightenment in Bodhgaya.

4 months ago

We arrived at Gaya Junction train station at 6.30am after 10 hours on the train from Kolkata. Leaving the morning circus of Gaya behind us, we hit the road for serene Bodygaya which was 30 minutes ride away via rikshaw.

After a short stand off between the rikshaw driver and myself over the tiresome “Sir - I have no change” conversation, he finally broke my 100 rupees note and we made our way in to Mohammad’s Guesthouse.

Mohammad’s House is located in a wonderful little local village with cheap rooms, a kitchen, an open roof top and lovely views of the sunset. I don’t think the other guesthouse options on the busy main road would of gave us the same experience. Highly recommended!

Indian tourists pay respect underneath the bodhi tree where Prince Siddhartha Gautama attained enlightenment and became Buddha some 2600 years ago.

After a quick shower and chai, we set off in to the hot hot mid day sun in search for the Mahabodhi Temple. The facade on the spire of the temple was certainly different to anything else I’ve seen before, looking rather futuristic and sci-fi in pattern design.

The Buddha trail continued, this time with 4 men and 1 motorbike, riding 12km north east of Bodhgaya to the Dungeshwari Cave, where Buddha spent 6 years of penance before descending on Bodhgaya.

It was a lovely motorbike journey, albeit a little tight on space, through little villages, dried river beds and lots of wide open space.

Onwards to Varanasi.


Imagining the view in Darjeeling.

4 months ago

It took 10 hours on a train from Kolkata to New Jalpaiguri and a 4 hour jeep ride up the mountain before we arrived in Darjeeling. Those willing to take the toy train up the mountain can do so, if you have 10 hours extra to spare and the visibility good enough to make the journey worth while.

I arrived in to a surreal blanket of bright white mist surrounding the entire town. It was strange being so high up and close to the Himalayan peaks, but unable to see this amazing backdrop. If anything, the mist made Darjeeling seem more mystical with the sound of chimes and chants escaping from nearby monasteries.

Those wanting a better chance of seeing the view “off season” should try a journey to Tiger Hill or nearby Sikkim.

We combated the cooler mountain temperature (like true Brits) by drinking litres of Darjeeling tea, and eating at the food stalls near the pony stables. The folded and stuffed veggie rotis with chilli sauce hit the spot every time.

Darjeeling felt rather cosmopolitan for a mountain town, with Nepalese, Tibetan and Indian making up the population mix. For a town so small this place has lots to offer travellers looking to escape from the heat in Kolkata.


One Chapati. Two Chapati. Kolkata, India.

4 months ago

The tea boys of Sutter Street make a mean chai tea served in a rustic clay cup.

I really like what I’ve seen of Kolkata so far. The Marble Palace, Victoria MemorialIndian Museum, Metro System and Planetarium provide some amusement for attraction seekers and give a glimpse into Kolkata’s colonial past. 

It’s just as enjoyable getting lost around the city and eating at one of the many delicious food stalls. Same goes for the lassies and tea.

Head to the Paragon Hotel on Sutter Street if you’re looking for a cheap place to stay.

Darjeeling then westward we go! 


Goodbye Kuala Lumpur.

4 months ago

I was secretly excited to arrive back in KL. It’s a city with some amazing culinary delights and diversity.

In Pasar Seni, old Chinese shop houses from 1910 line the street next to modern skyscrapers, whilst in Bukit Bintang the landscape is dominated by post-modern, Islamic and Malay architecture.

The purpose of this visit was to obtain an Indian visa, relax and take some pictures. After researching on the internet it appears you cannot apply direct with the Indian embassy anymore. Luckily India Mike has it all under control. It even works out that the visa center is a 5 minute walk from Le Village, my favourite place to stay and chill out (on a budget) in KL.

Outside the Pertronas Towers.

This one looks like a modern world war 2 bunker from Jersey.

Secondhand camera shop in China Town.

One more country to go. Destination Kolkata, India!


Destination Kuala Lumpor via Taipei, Taiwan.

4 months ago

If you’re trying to get back to Kuala Lumpor from Japan, consider stopping over in Taipei. I found a cheap flight from Kansai International Airport to Taoyuan which got me back on the Air Asia network again.

Another thing worth sharing is a hostel I came across in central Taipei. Plenty of cheap food options and transport links within walking distance. A real result.

The hostel in question is called Holo Family House, situated on the 22nd floor of the KMall. The guesthouse also seems to be pretty earthquake proof, as I didn’t feel the aftershocks that hit Taipei recently.

I was expecting a big come down from Japan, so much so I had done no research on visa requirements  (free 90 day visa on arrival) or places to stay before setting off to the airport.

The friendliness of the people and great location nursed my Japanese come down a real treat. I’ll be back.